JQR’s secret city

Biking, running, literature, music, photographs, and the North Wind 
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Round foil container? Lunch must be inside

Today's takeout lunch: chicken (muslo de pollo al horno) with
yellow rice and beans. If it comes in a round foil container, it must be lunch.
 
It's raining, so I went to the nearby Dominican restaurant for
takeout, instead of to the Guineans on 116th or the Ivoirians on 125th.
 
This particular Resto Tropical (yeah, I know, every Spanish restaurant
is either Caridad or Tropical) gets a steady lunchtime crowd; the
rotisserie chicken with rice (pictured above) or chicken with salad is
a steal for $5 or $4 respectively.
 
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Filed under  //   beans   chicken   containers   lunch   photographs   rice   takeout  

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“A face that seemed so sturdy as to defy even the devastating pickax of misery,” Balzac

 

…Godefroid examined [the stranger] closely and was surprised at his exceptional thinness, no doubt caused by sorrow, and perhaps hunger, and very likely hard work. Each of these debilitating forces had left its mark on that face, whose withered skin clung tightly to the bones, as if baked by the fires of Africa. His high, looming forehead sheltered two steel blue eyes beneath its cupola, eyes as cold, hard, wise, and penetrating as the eyes of the savages but marred by two deep and very wrinkled dark circles. His long slender nose and proudly raised chin gave the old man a certain resemblance to the popular image of Don Quixote, but this was the face of a cruel Don Quixote, a Don Quixote without illusions, Don Quixote as a formidable figure.

In spite of this severity, the old man could not entirely conceal the fear and frailty that indigence confers on all its victims. These two afflictions had created something like cracks in a face that seemed so sturdy as to defy even the devastating pickax of misery. His mouth was eloquent and serious. Don Quixote was complicated by the President de Montesquieu.

 

Le grand vieillard hésitait à répondre; il voyait venir Mme. Vauthier; mais Godefroid, qui l'examinait attentivement, fut surpris du degré de maigreur auquel les chagrins, la faim peut-être, peut-être le travail, l'avaient fait arriver; il y avait trace de toutes ces causes d'affaiblissement sur cette figure, où la peau desséchée se collait avec ardeur sur les os, comme si elle avait été exposée aux feux de l'Afrique. Le front, haut et d'un aspect menaçant, abritait sous sa coupole deux yeux d'un bleu d'acier, deux yeux froids, durs, sagaces et perspicaces comme ceux des sauvages, mais meurtris par un profond cercle noir très ridé. Le nez, grand, long et mince, et le menton, très relevé, donnaient à ce vieillard une ressemblance avec le masque si connu, si populaire attribué à don Quichotte; mais c'était don Quichotte méchant, sans illusions, un don Quichotte terrible.

Ce vieillard, malgré cette sévérité générale, laissait percer la crainte et la faiblesse que prête l'indigence à tous les malheureux. Ces deux sentiments produisaient comme des lézardes dans cette face construite si solidement que le pic dévastateur de la misère semblait s'y ébrécher. La bouche était éloquente et sérieuse. Don Quichotte se compliquait du président de Montesquieu.

—Balzac, The Wrong Side of Paris (L'envers de l'histoire contemporaine), Part II, Chapter 3, translated by Jordan Stump

Do we still see our fellows in the same detailed way? I wonder if this kind of descriptive language, this way of introducing a character, still exists in the language of the present day. I know that it's often easier to look for a shorthand metaphor, a kind of picture-word that's worth at least five hundred other words; I'm thinking of this kind of description in particular:

The headmistress was a tall, slim woman who looked a little like Charles de Gaulle.
To me Balzac's description reeks of the past, of a different way of looking at people, of close examination of appearance as a way to better understanding of character. This kind of quote takes those old saws about how “suffering was written on his face” and walks the reader through one such face: M. Bernard's thinness as the result of hard work and sorrow and hunger, the forehead-as-cupola, the steely blue eyes, and the reference to popular views of Don Quixote.

The larger question is this: do people even look like M. Bernard any more, especially in novels?

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picture via flickr.com

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Filed under  //   Balzac   elderly   faces   figure of speech   France   literature   metaphor   old men   Paris   photographs   poor   poverty   quotes  

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Flat me!

Ongoing repair work in Upper Manhattan extends past the 181st Street IRT station to the handball courts in Fort Washington Park,
near 158th St:

View Larger Map
Twice in a week on the ride downtown, my friend has run into these giant metal flat-causing objects: the first one, the bobby-pin shaped thing, actually did not itself puncture the tube: the pictured object had run itself into one of the rubber studs on the tire and out again, without puncturing anything airtight. A similar one had gone in at a deeper angle, passed through the tube and out again, and left two holes. I only found the pictured one while inspecting the tire after patching the flat.
 
Today's evil coil of wire had such a latent desire to come along on our journey, it had managed to lodge one end of itself into the tire and through the tube. I could hear the other end flapping against the bottom of the luggage rack as she rode along. A hundred meters later, she halted, and I held it the coil in place while deflating the tube, then popped the bead off the rim and saw it projecting a half-inch through the tire and into the tube.
 
While I glued on the patch, she went to investigate: apparently as the workmen resurfacing the handball court scrape the cyclone-fence door open and shut, the metal pieces break off and stay in the pathway, waiting to ambush passing cyclists using the Hudson River Greenway. 
 
Maybe slick tires are the answer, because the detritus seems to stick between the studs and work itself into the tube. Any thoughts?
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Click here to download:
Flat_me.zip (776 KB)

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Filed under  //   bicycling   flat fix   Greenway   Hudson River   mountain bike   photographs   repairs  

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Finally, something useful on Twitter: @NYCTSubwayScoop shows pictures from 181st St emergency rebuild

The local subway station ceiling collapsed on Monday, giving me another excuse to ride to work (and to everywhere else), despite the current wave of 90-degree-plus temperatures and ambient humidity that makes it feel like riding through a foot bath full of Epsom salts.

For a couple days, there were no pictures of the damage, but now, it seems as if the MTA has been releasing them, and from this awesome ceiling-mounted angle. Check out http://twitter.com/NYCTSubwayScoop for more.

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Filed under  //   calamity   ceilings   IRT   photographs   repairs   social-networking   subway   tunnels   twitter  

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Thiebou Dienn ('cheb') from a place on East 116th St, gotta love the tamarind


Thiebou Dienn for lunch today, the Senegalese national dish. This wasn't homemade, like the last cheb photo I posted, but instead was sourced from the nice ladies at 62 East 116th Street, between Park and Madison.
 
One of my office-mates has been craving Senegalese food for days now, so when she pulled the menu for the old Guinean place I frequented before I went down to the Secret City out of the stack I had a twinge of nostalgia and quickly gathered up the gumption to call them and order two plates of cheb. I know you're thinking, "Senegalese/Guinean, what's the deal here; do I go to a German restaurant for spaghetti bolognese?" Maybe you don't, but in my limited experience everyone who's tried it enjoys eating cheb, even me, and making it is kind of fun too.
 
The restaurant had kept the same phone number, but according to the order-taker they no longer did deliveries, and when I went to their old premises, they had moved, so it was a mini-adventure in itself just getting to the place, which was bizarrely named "Akwaaba," the Twi (Ghana) word for welcome. So Senegalese food from Guinean cooks in a restaurant with a Ghanaian name.
 
As you can see, it looked pretty good when I got the dish back to the office and unpacked, and the colleague was very appreciative of my efforts.
 
They didn't stuff the fish (some kind of sea-bass, I think), which is certainly an option that the Senegalese gastronome would not forego, but they did include the tamarind pieces. I think tamarind and a white fish go great together, and I should probably try to do something a little less elaborate with those two ingredients soon.

For your own delectation, you can try these at home:

  • My favorite cheb recipe comes from an old, old New York Times article, now available here.
  • Epicurious has a version as well, that lacks the tamarind, but does include the dried smoked fish, which is an acquired taste.
  • An easy recipe, that doesn't stuff the fish or make the rice with the cooking liquid, is available at the bottom of this page of collected African fish recipes.
  • A wiki page with the recipe is here: they include the tamarind and stuff the fish both.
  • And this one from the pages of the Times in this decade, is way too complicated. Dried snail, anyone?


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Filed under  //   carrot   fish   food   Guinea   lunch   photographs   rice   Senegal   stew   takeout   tamarind   thiebou dienn  

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‘I’ll put them to fast for nine days with a sprig of thyme, then clean them till they spit with vinegar and salt,’ Derek Raymond, He Died With His Eyes Open

But this cold will pass. The woodlice will come out of the walls again with the spring rain; the snails will sail slowly through the young weeds on the path. There will be warm, wet mornings dark with cloud, and I’ll be out with my plastic bag and a stick to get a free dinner of snails, the petit gris. I’ll put them to fast for nine days with a sprig of thyme, then clean them till they spit with vinegar and salt, boil them out of their shells and cut the shit off them, then do a cold garlic butter with parsley and eat them off the special plates that Margo bought in the market. I shall eat them by candlelight and pretend it’s a dinner party. [Derek Raymond, He Died With His Eyes Open, Chapter 17]

…I soon found number eighteen; it was the door that banged in the dark wind and had a pile of costermongers’ garbage three feet high beside it. The door banged because it didn’t lock, and it didn’t lock because the traders used the street-level passageway for parking their barrows and empty crates. I stood at the foot of the stairs in the gloom for a minute, then got my flashlight out—where would anybody be in modern London without one? I looked for a push button to light the cement stairs that yawned in front of me; there was one, but it didn’t work. On the inside of the street door was a wire basket full of mail. It looked like disagreeable mail, the kind that arrives in buff envelopes, and evidently nobody ever read it, because it looked as if it had been there a long time. [Chapter 20]

‘But you weren’t prepared to try the famous knack on anybody else, were you? No, because anyone with any balls would have told you to fuck off, and you’d have burst into tears, just like you’re about to do with me. You’re like a sinister little boy, Eric; every time the beastly horrid sand-castle falls in you burst out crying and try and kick someone smaller than you are. I bet you think of yourself as the detritus of your society—it’s a good excuse for a wallow in self-pity. But all you are, Eric, is just a wanker.’ [Chapter 20]

I’m still working my way through Derek Raymond’s He Died With His Eyes Open, but I had to post these three, coming so closely on top of one another (all three within 20 pages) as they did, and each one so perfect in its own way. I’d unexpectedly come upon this Derek Raymond book at a different branch library, so after the week before last’s pleasure at reading How The Dead Live, I couldn’t leave it be but had to borrow it.

Aux escargots! To the first passage we go. How do you tell a poor man? He’s someone who can’t afford a long word. Out of the 128 words I’ve quoted, there’s only two of three or more syllables: vinegar and candlelight. It’s not the book’s narrator who’s talking, it’s the victim, quoted speaking on an audio tape he left behind. A regular clue.

But the only clue you get out of this passage is how exquisitely close his life is to the bone of subsistence, and yet how much pleasure he derives out of the search for nourishment. Even though his life (as described earlier in the chapter) has been reduced to cycling through one punishing task after another in order to ward off complete destitution, he still envisions waiting more than a week to completely prepare for a nice dinner. It’s left for the reader to decide whether he would actually let the little gastropods alone for nine days, or just skewer and roast them that first spring evening.

The second quote is delivered by the book’s nameless protagonist, a police officer (naturally). Describing the desolation of a squat through the mail that it receives is a stroke of genius, and to me a peculiarly English one; I can’t imagine Bill Pronzini’s nameless San Francisco detective nailing the exact color of envelope that “disagreeable mail” comes in, but the descriptor evokes for me both the desperation of the departed tenants to whom the mail is addressed, as well as the liberation of the current crop of squatters living there, who pay no attention to the mail basket because their names aren’t known to creditors, yet.

And the third quote I tossed in because you’re like me, and you always wondered what exactly a “wanker” was. Now we know, right?
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Filed under  //   butter   crime novels   Derek Raymond   food   literature   London   mail   mystery novels   parsley   photographs   quotes   salt   snails   squats   thyme   vinegar   woodlice  

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Archived (and blurry) pictorial tunafish recipe, just right for a lazy person's Sunday dinner


 
In the picture, from four years ago, the canonical tunafish salad recipe, already blurry with the patina of age. Don’t forget the palm oil; the stuff is so yummy with fish. The little knoblike thing on top of the pickle relish jar? It’s a shallot.
 
I did OK tonight, whatever shortcomings from the recipe made up for by delicious fresh bread my girlfriend baked earlier. I had no pickle relish or palm oil, so a little olive oil and some tomato-apple relish from a home-canned jar in the back of the fridge had to do. No shallot either.
 
Tags: sandwich recipe tuna shallots olive-oil relish palm-oil photographs
 
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Filed under  //   black pepper   capers   cumin   mustard   olive oil   palm oil   photographs   recipes   sandwich   shallots   tunafish  

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Maru the most famous cat in Japan gets new digs, peep his blog at http://sisinmaru.blog17.fc2.com

Maru has moved. His URL is the same as always, but he is living in a new house. To me the most exciting thing about Japan's most famous cat is not how cute he is (plenty cute), but the interior decoration of his home.

For someone with several cats at home, I'm astonished at how clean and uncluttered Maru's apartment is. I've wondered if he had a filming room with no clutter and no furniture, and if the rest of the apartment behind the camera was full of books, CDs, half-empty tubes of paint and balls of yarn like my mountain cabin here. Maru's apartment is like the anti-cabin: calm, empty, tranquil.
Now that he's moving, it's like Season 2 of a trashy reality show, "Chez Marou," or whatever. I can't wait to see the new decor.

Tune in yourself at http://sisinmaru.blog17.fc2.com

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Filed under  //   blogs   cats   decor   home   interiors   Japan   Maru   pets   photographs  

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“Jonas and Buddha created a common domain that was theirs alone; they were both citizens of an imaginary Mongolia,” Kjaerstad, The Conqueror

 

As time went on, Jonas and Buddha created a common domain that was theirs alone; they were both citizens of an imaginary Mongolia, ‘land of the brave, proud men.’ As often as possible they would take themselves off to Lillomarka to indulge their Mongolian inclinations: to be nomads on a boundless plain, nomads who loved the wind and the freedom found under those clear skies, who would quite spontaneously compare sheep viewed against a lush pasture with pearls on green velvet. Over his bed in the new villa, just a stone’s throw from Solhaug and their old flat, Buddha had a large-scale map of Mongolia and across this they made many an arduous trek before he went to sleep. In due course, Buddha memorized the names of most of the country’s towns and provinces, mountains and rivers. He was also one of the very few people in Norway who knew the meaning of such utterly elementary words as ‘khalka,’ ‘tugrik,’ and ‘urga.’ Jonas never could tell how much of all this his brother understood, but he certainly remembered it, used the words properly—it could of course have been put down to his marvelous gift for mimicry, which also made him an uncommonly good ABBA imitator—his renderings of numbers such as “I Do, I Do, I Do, I Do, I Do” were quite priceless. Buddha could well be called an expert in his field.


 

—Jan Kjaerstad, The Conqueror (trans. by Barbara J. Haveland)
 
This quote, which shuffles quickly from the noetic to the experiential to the ephemeral, is just the kind of thing that stirs my heart, and it expresses, I think, what so many of us hope to find in books. Right here, in one paragraph, is tautly combined the joy of an imaginary world, the way that we see ourselves most deeply in the worlds we create for ourselves, with the most humdrum possible artistic pursuit, imitating pop songs.
 
Books are the fuel for those explorations, the raw material for our own creative sorties. I think that part of what Kjaerstad is trying to do in his Jonas Wergeland novels is to create a shadow Norway, an alternate-history Norway, in which can be addressed some of the peculiarities of the Norwegian national character. Interestingly, he’s telling the same story in The Conqueror as in The Seducer, which is a neat trick if you can pull it off, and one that reinforces my thesis here. The Conqueror is an alternate history of The Seducer. We’ll see after the third novel (The Discoverer, yet to be released in English translation) if this holds true, and if Kjaerstad can sew the whole garment together.
 
Oh yes, Khalkha is the name of the Mongol people and language; tugrik is money, and urga is a long stick with a lasso at the end for animal herding.
 
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Filed under  //   books   imagination   Jan Kjaerstad   literature   Mongolia   noosphere   Norway   novels   photographs   quotes  

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“Moss choked the blocked teeth of the keyboard” D. Raymond, ‘How the Dead Live’

Rain, which I could see pelting through a glassless window, had now set in for the night. It tapped monotonously on floors, on tables and broken chairs as we passed—a gilt clock without its dome and smothered in verdigris stood with its hands forever at twenty to ten on a dripping mantelpiece. Pictures, eighteenth-century prints and maps, askew on the walls, some lying on the floor in their own glass, gazed at us in the light of Mardy's gaslamp—light that also glanced across a tallboy with jammed and swollen drawers, on a stricken chandelier with half its lustres missing. It danced over a music-room with a concert grand in it; moss choked the blocked teeth of the keyboard. It slid over partitas spread wetly on a stand, on a drenched metronome with its pendulum rusted out to the left, and the water streaming down the walls glittered in it.

—Derek Raymond, How the Dead Live, Chapter 9

I’ve read one of these Derek Raymond novels before, but How the Dead Live strikes some neverbefore heard chord in the Gothic repertory. Half a Chandler knockoff, half a Poe knockoff, it’s completely original in the depth of its existential flagellation. The nameless protagonist, a detective, proves to himself that he’s alive by constantly abrading his personality against the worthless rotten inhabitants of a Kentish village, the way my cat self-medicates her swollen gums.

The 80-room ruin holding pride of place in the minimal plot, the one the narrator describes in the quote: is it a metaphor for the ruined England of the early eighties? Or a metaphor for the creakiness and rot at the heart of the detective novel? I wouldn’t call this one exactly a fresh approach, but there is something to be said for the grand gesture of degradation.

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Filed under  //   crime novels   Derek Raymond   existentialism   Gothic   literature   mildew   mold   moss   mould   photographs   quotes   rain   ruins   verdigris  

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